I love it when seasons – and their flavours – overlap. During July sweet cicely leaves are still about and beautifully echo the aniseed notes of horse mushrooms. This gorgeous wee plate takes 15 minutes to knock up…
I would choose this as my last meal. It is simply perfect and perfect simplicity. You just need to ensure that your ceps are young, firm and crisp, with a texture almost like tender coconut. These are just too fine and rare for cooking and should be celebrated in all their glorious, raw simplicity. And don’t penny-pinch on the parmesan!
Risotto has to be one of the nicest ways to use the mixed bag of fungi that so often comes back from a foray. The warm, earthy flavours of most wild mushrooms lend themselves really well to the generous unctiousness of a well made sofritto.
The season for winter chanterelles and pheasants overlap and they compliment one another very well. Here is a hearty slow-braised stew that is perfect for late autumn and winter evenings…