In Season Now

A guest recipe from chutney connoisseur James Mackenzie

An introduction to several key members of the allium family for foragers – their identification, distribution, mindful harvesting, dangerous look-alikes, nutritional properties and cooking/preservation techniques.

The wracks make up most of the green-brown mat that lies in the high to mid tidal range, and as such, are most commonly encountered by the average coastal explorer. Although each has some interesting culinary uses, they are mostly responsible for the poor image of seaweed as a food source that pervades the UK.

Both species are large brown to golden brown seaweeds up to 3m long, with flat, finger-like fronds extending from a narrow stem (technically known as a meristem). The best way to distinguish between the two, is by the flattened stem of oarweed that flops limp when exposed, compared to the round, solid stems of forest kelp…

Sugar kelp is closely related to Saccharina japonica, the (farmed) seaweed basis of nearly all Japanese dashi, and can be used in similar ways – adding umami to soups, stews and stocks.