The brittlegill (russula) family of mushrooms are notoriously hard to tell apart. Novices should not be put off however, as there are no terrifyingly toxic brittle gills, and the charcoal burner is common, easily identified and tasty. A great beginner’s brittle gill!

I love it when seasons – and their flavours – overlap. During July sweet cicely leaves are still about and beautifully echo the aniseed notes of horse mushrooms. This gorgeous wee plate takes 15 minutes to knock up…

These little tendrils of joy delight me with their quiet insidious clamberings over the less subtle denizens of the hedgerow. Suck the flowers for a tiny, yet hugely rewarding sweet nectar hit, then chew to enjoy generous pea flavours. The delicate leaves and tendrils from the end of the stems make excellent garnishes, in the vein of “microherbs” so popular with chefs nowadays. Only these are nicer. And free.

This adorable, delicate little flower clings tenaciously to sea cliffs, upper reaches of shingle beaches and the foreshore. The tips of the foliage have a unique flavour, though with a somewhat bitter aftertaste in summer. The flowers have a delicious hit of sweet nectar followed by an extraordinary fresh “mouth feel”…

There is something about alcoholic aniseed flavours that works wonderfully with sunshine – as witnessed by the popularity of drinks on the licorice-anise spectrum around the med: absinthe, ouzo, sambuca, anis…I could go on. So I figured why not use our indigenous (in the north of Britain anyway) sweet cicely (myrrhis oderata) to make a cocktail.