Three of the finest liquids known to man go into this cocktail. Two of them are about the most labour-intensive liquids in the forager’s repertoire, so its quite an investment of precious resources…

Orange birch boletes far exceed their more common brethren, the brown birch bolete (leccinum scabrum), in texture and flavour. Both are common only under birch trees. Info also on orange oak and orange aspen boletes

This common “weed” is actually a delight to eat. It has a mild, fresh, “grassy” flavour with no bitterness, making it an excellent bulker in wild salads – where mild flavours are needed to balance more pungent flavours. It cooks down well – like spinach, but try to harvest only the lush, leafy tops or it can tend towards stringyness…

The brittlegill (russula) family of mushrooms are notoriously hard to tell apart. Novices should not be put off however, as there are no terrifyingly toxic brittle gills, and the charcoal burner is common, easily identified and tasty. A great beginner’s brittle gill!

I love it when seasons – and their flavours – overlap. During July sweet cicely leaves are still about and beautifully echo the aniseed notes of horse mushrooms. This gorgeous wee plate takes 15 minutes to knock up…